I haven’t had any irritation and I am pretty sensitive. Meanwhile, if I don’t put this on after cleansing my eyes feel really dry. I considered the Neutrogena one as well but more people mentioned wrinkles deepening and that worries me. I also have no packaging issues. I roll the metal up as I go to maximize product and keep it from cracking.
Skin – the largest organ of the body – protects all the other organs from the external environment. The skin is a complex organ with multiple structures and cell types and divided into three layers: epidermis, dermis, and the subcutaneous tissue. The epidermis is mainly composed of keratinocytes, pigment-producing melanocytes, and antigen-presenting Langerhans cells. A basement membrane separates the epidermis from the dermis, which primarily contains extracellular proteins produced by the fibroblasts below. The vascular supply to the skin resides in the dermis. The subcutaneous tissue consists of fat cells that underline the connective tissue network. Type I collagen is the most abundant protein in the skin connective tissue. The other extracellular matrix proteins, which are a part of the skin connective tissue, are collagens (III, V, and VII), elastin, proteoglycans, fibronectin, etc. The newly synthesized type I procollagen is secreted into the dermal extracellular space where it undergoes enzymatic processing to arrange itself into a triple helix configuration (Rittié and Fisher 2002).
Water, Cyclopentasiloxane, Glycerin, Tetrahydroxypropyl Ethylenediamine, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethicone, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer, Nylon-12, PEG-12 Dimethicone, Tocopherol, Phenoxyethanol, Citric Acid, Butylene Glycol, Pentylene Glycol, Laureth-23, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Fragrance, Laureth-4, Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Ethylparaben, Polyacrylamide, Disodium EDTA, Allantoin, BHT, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Polysorbate 20, Magnesium Aspartate, Zinc Gluconate, Bisabolol, Retinol, Ascorbic Acid, Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid, Laureth-7, Copper Gluconate, Yellow 5
Advanced Clinicals is a problem solving skincare line that stands behind high-quality ingredients and advanced, scientific delivery systems. Originally developed by chemists who wanted to create effective formulations using advanced technology, Advanced Clinicals is a collection of ‘cosmeceuticals.’ The brand’s mission is to offer skin care solutions at attainable prices for their customers. All Advanced Clinicals products retail for under $20 and feature ingredients, such as Retinol, Vitamin C, Salicylic Acid, Glycolic Acid and clinically tested anti-aging blends.
At one time, you could only get Retinol serums through a prescription from your dermatologist or at an expensive spa, but in the last few years more and more skin care companies have been manufacturing more affordable over the counter retinol serums.
It’s no shocker that the number of anti-aging products appearing on shelves has skyrocketed over the years. (Between 2007 and 2010, product launches nearly doubled.) What is surprising is the active ingredient that’s touted in the vast majority of these potions: good old retinoids. This class of vitamin A derivatives has been used in skin care since the ’70s. The most famous product, Retin-A, is made with the retinoid tretinoin. It was developed in the late ’60s by Albert Kligman, Ph.D., a professor of dermatology at the University of Pennsylvania, as an acne treatment and approved by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA). (Chances are, you used it on pimples back in the day.) Kligman and his colleague James Leyden, M.D., noticed that Retin-A also improved wrinkles and skin tone in acne patients. Kligman eventually patented Renova, a tretinoin in an emollient base, which was the first FDA-approved topical treatment for wrinkles and fine lines. That was about 18 years ago, and yet retinoids still star in everything from moisturizers and serums to eye and neck creams. Why is what’s old still so new?
Retinol is synthesized from the breakdown of β-carotene. First the β-carotene 15-15’-monooxygenase cleaves β-carotene at the central double bond, creating an epoxide. This epoxide is then attacked by water creating two hydroxyl groups in the center of the structure. The cleavage occurs when these alcohols are reduced to the aldehydes using NADH. This compound is called retinal. Retinal is then reduced to retinol by the enzyme retinol dehydrogenase. Retinol dehydrogenase is an enzyme that is dependent on NADH.
Stay out of the sun. If you must be outdoors, limit your hours, especially between 10 a.m. and 2 p.m. Wear sunscreen, preferably with a sun protection factor (SPF) of 30 or higher, and protective clothing, such as a long-sleeved shirt, pants, and a large-brimmed hat.
Kim and colleagues (2003) have demonstrated that concomitant application of natural agents or extracts like β-sitosterol, Magnoliae flos, β-glycyrrhetinic acid, Scleroglucan, Gingko extract, Raspberry extract, Schisandra extract, Cola extract, Enna complex, or Vegetol red grapevine extract could also be useful in counteracting the irritant effects produced by topical retinoids. The abovementioned natural agents or extracts reduced the secretion of MCP-1 and IL-8 from human fibroblasts and also showed a good protection against the retinoid-induced irritation in the rabbit and human patch test. A different approach to reduce adverse events of retinoids was applied by Kambayashi et al (2005). Topical application of a new synthetic retinoid (N-retinoyl-D-glucosamine) to hairless mice showed good efficacy in repair of photoaged skin but did not induce skin irritations compared with retinoic acid.
Sunscreen was another must. Not only does it protect skin from sun damage, but also the right kind can help brighten up dark circles right away. “Morning creams with zinc oxide, natural minerals, or other optical diffusers will help conceal dark circles and provide sun protection, so they have dual purpose,” says Klein. We call that a win-win.
Sefton and colleagues (2000) first conducted a pilot, double-blind, randomized trial to evaluate the efficacy of 0.1% tazarotene gel in 10 healthy women with moderate photodamage of the forearm skin. At the end of 12 weeks, significant reduction in pigmentary mottling, fine wrinkling, and skin roughness were observed in the tazarotene treated group as evidenced in silicon skin surface replicas. Moreover, histopathological investigations indicated a reduction of keratinocytic atypia and a restoration of keratinocyte polarity.
When it comes to anti-aging secrets, Klein says it’s all about the combination of the retinoids and moisturizers. If you’re not acne-prone, she suggests pairing up your anti-aging eye cream with a thick petroleum-based balm to boost effects. “At night you do want something more moisturizing in combination with a retinoid. For some people, a thick layer of Vaseline or Aquaphor over retinol at night is one of the best secrets to anti-aging, because they’re so much more moisturizing than many of the creams alone,” she says.